Kay’s Covid Cookery Class No 13. Kedgeree/khichri

kedgereeI had never heard of kedgeree until I went to boarding school, where a particularly disgusting version would occasionally be served for breakfast. (All food at my boarding school was disgusting, which probably explains why I was so skinny then, and why I’m obsessed with cooking good, tasty food now).

The original Indian version, khichri, is a rice and lentil dish, colonised by the Brits who replaced the lentils with fish and eggs and changed the spelling.

When I arrived at Steve Hatt fishmonger this morning (5th May 2020 – day thirteen thousand six bazillion of Covid lockdown) I was early enough to catch some hilarious banter about a bay tree (check their Facebook page), and to spot the lovely smoked haddock fillets in the window. Proper smoked haddock is pale yellow and not too salty, not like the bright yellow stuff you might find sweating in a sealed plastic bag in a supermarket.

For some reason, I thought of kedgeree, a dish I haven’t cooked or eaten in years. While it’s traditionally a breakfast dish, I had it for dinner this evening because who knows what day it is, much less cares what time of day……

Here’s how I made it. This is enough for 2. (Well, probably enough for 4, but I’m greedy these days).


2 smoked haddock fillets (there will probably be a few tiny bones in there, so watch out for those)

120 g basmati rice

1 tbsp oil and a knob of butter

1 tsp turmeric

1 tsp ground coriander

¼ tsp cinnamon

1 small onion, finely chopped

500 ml mild vegetable stock or water

2 eggs, hard boiled (about 7 minutes).

1/2 cup chopped parsley or coriander leaf (US friends – cilantro to you.)

What to do, roughly speaking:

Boil the eggs. Let them cool. Remove shells and chop very finely

Place the haddock fillets in a frying pan with enough water to just cover them, bring to the boil, cover the pan and cook for 4 – 5 minutes. Drain, allow to cool, remove the skin and chop the flesh into small pieces.

Heat the oil and butter in a saucepan. When it’s hot but not smoking, add the finely chopped onion, fry for a minute then turn down the heat, cover the pan and keep cooking the onion until it’s soft (3 or 4 minutes)

Add the powdered spices. Mix well and keep frying for a couple of minutes.

Add the rice and mix it around until it’s coated with the oil/spice/onion mix.

Add stock or water, bring to the boil.

Cover the pan, turn down the heat and simmer for about 10-12 minutes stirring occasionally. If the rice is drying out, just add a little more water. Taste the rice to see if it’s cooked.

Gently stir in the fish pieces and then the egg, mix it all up well and keep cooking on a very low heat for about 5 minutes.

Add salt and pepper to taste along with the chopped green herb (parsley or coriander/cilantro).


Kay’s Covid Cookery Class No.12. Swordfish isn’t very photogenic.

Appearances aren’t everything. This swordfish steak, for example, is no oil painting (totally overshadowed by that primadonna of a salad) but tasted absolutely delicious.

I simply squeezed the juice of half a lemon into a bowl, added about a teaspoon of mixed, smashed up coriander seeds and black peppercorns, a finely chopped clove of garlic and a little salt. Dipped the swordfish steak in the juicy, spicy mix and grilled it under a very hot grill for about 4 minutes each side.

That’s it. Yummy.

Steve Hatt the fishmongers like us to post pictures of our fish dishes on their Facebook page, but they might not thank me for this one!


Kay’s Covid Cookery Class No.11. Missing El Pescadero, so next best thing is Essex Road Fish Tacos.

El Pescadero Sunset…

If you are lucky enough to find yourself in the seaside village of El Pescadero, Baja California Sur, Mexico, there are *several wonderful restaurants for you to visit. Each one of them serving the tastiest of fresh local fish and produce, with generous helpings of local charm and banter. The other day one of these, Barracuda Cantina, shared a sweet little video of the opening of a bottle of Pacifico, which gave me that happy+sad feeling that I get so much in these strange times. Happy to know these wonderful places and people, happy that I have learned to cook food from all over the world, sad because I miss my amig@s Mexican@s and my comadres and compadres at Modern Elder Academy, and sad because I won’t be going to visit them as I had planned to do in a couple of months time.

I’ve also been in conversation this week with a few medics and dieticians about the importance of a good diet in maintaining an efficient immune system, and have been reminded of how colourful a healthy diet is.

Inspired by all this, I made myself some fish tacos and washed them down with a bottle of Corona. (Yes, of COURSE I prefer Pacifico, but it’s hard to get here in London, and Corona is soooo cheap these days!!)

Steve Hatt have some very good cod fillet at the moment, which is very good for this recipe, and they have some very tasty swordfish if you’re feeling extravagant.


150 g filleted white fish cut into bite-sized pieces

A squeeze of lemon juice

1/2 tablespoon smoked paprika

1 medium onion – sliced

1 red pepper seeded and sliced

1 yellow pepper, seeded and sliced

1 smoked chilli finely chopped (optional)

2 garlic cloves

2 tablespoons of tomato sauce (no, not ketchup!! If you don’t want to make the tomato sauce use passata di pomodoro or some puree slightly diluted with red wine)

Salt and pepper

(These are the ingredients for 1 person. If cooking for 2, double the amount of fish but keep the rest the same. For 4, 4x the fish and double everything else.)

What to do. …roughly speaking:

Squeeze a little lemon juice over the fish pieces in a shallow bowl. Sprinkle the smoked paprika over the fish and mix it around gently. Leave to stand for about 30 minutes

Heat some oil in a saucepan and fry the garlic and onion for a couple of minutes, then add the sliced peppers and chopped smoked chilli if you want a little more bite. Fry for another 5 minutes.  Add the fish for about 5 minutes, turning gently all the time. then add the tomato sauce or passata. Stir it together gently so not to break up the fish.  Add salt and pepper to taste.

Place a lid on the pan and keep cooking for 5 minutes until the fish is cooked through (test by tasting).

Serve in warm corn or flour tortillas with sides of guacamole, tomato salsa, mango salsa.


*Other favourite places to eat in El Pescadero are Hierbabuena (fabulously fresh garden to table food), Baja Beans for the best coffee and Carlito’s Place for Mexican/Asian fusion including some of the best sushi you will eat anywhere.

Kay’s Covid Cookery Class No.10. Breaded haddock pieces

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_3c89In lockdown, and missing fish and chips, I decided to invent a fried fish dinner for myself. Not battered, but breaded, so, (guess what?) you’ll need breadcrumbs. If you’re lucky enough to live near Essex Road, Raab’s the Bakers sometimes sell bags of fresh breadcrumbs, or you can dry a couple of slices of bread in the oven on a low heat, and then blitz in a blender.

I used haddock, but if Steve Hatt (other independent fishmongers are available!) don’t have any, then any meaty white fish will do.

Ingredients per person:

200g haddock fillet chopped into small pieces.

1/2 cup breadcrumbs

2 tsp smoked paprika powder

generous pinch of salt and pepper

squeeze of lemon

Place the chopped haddock in a bowl and squeeze some lemon juice over the fish. Leave to stand for about 15 minutes. The lemon juice helps the crumb to stick to the fish as well as giving a little zest to the flavour.

Mix together the breadcrumbs, smoked paprika, salt and pepper. Sprinkle the seasoned breadcrumb mix over the fish pieces, gently moving them around so that they become coated in breadcrumbs. Alternatively, put the seasoned breadcrumbs in a freezer bag, add the fish pieces and gently shake to coat the fish.

Cover the bottom of a frying pan with cooking oil (I used olive oil) and heat until smoking. Turn down very slightly and add the coated fish. Move and turn the fish pieces very gently with a fish slice or spatula as it cooks. It will take about 5 minutes. You can lift out a piece and try it to make sure that it’s hot all the way through.

The more observant among you see from the photo that I treated myself to a glass of wine with this; a lovely Rosa Bianca Pinot Grigio that I bought from the Alpaca pub which is right next door to Steve Hatt the fishmonger and open for off sales of beer, wine and some food from 12 noon til 6 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday.

Wherever you are, stay safe, eat well and please support your local, independent food shops.

Kay’s Covid Cookery Class No.9. Baked red mullet.

What are you missing most in this physical-distancing, lockdown world? For me, it’s definitely having people over for food, drinks, conversation and silliness.

Today, I found the up side to not being able to cook for others. I’m calling it risky fish cookery.

You see, when I cook for others I like to be fairly confident that I’m going to serve up something they’ll enjoy. And today I realised that cooking for myself means that I can take chances and learn how to cook those things that I usually avoid.

As I waited in the safely separated and beautifully illustrated (thanks, Jason) line outside Steve Hatt, I was pretty sure that I was going to buy myself a nice, safe salmon fillet. But then, as I waited and looked at the lovely display in the window, my eye was drawn to the gorgeous red mullet. Now, don’t get me wrong, I love red mullet, but I don’t cook it. I associate it with open air seaside restaurants and barbecues, not my kitchen.

CogIyc1RSL2AXfqQAhBCtw_thumb_3c24So, I bit the mullet (geddit?!?!?!) and bought one. So glad I did. It was so easy to cook and so delicious. I really wish you could smell and taste this photo.

Here’s how I cooked it:

Preheat the oven to really hot 230ºC, 450ºF Gas mark 9

1 red mullet cleaned, not filleted

1/2 tomato

1/2 red pepper

1 clove garlic

1 tsp sumac powder or juice of half a lemon

salt and pepper

Chop the garlic finely, slice the tomato and red pepper and place them inside the fish

Rub the sumac on the skin of the fish, or drizzle the lemon juice on it, sprinkle on a little salt and pepper.

Wrap the fish loosely in foil and place it on a baking tray in the pre-heated oven.

After 5 minutes, turn the oven down to 200ºC/400ºF/Gas 6 and cook for another 20 minutes.

Unwrap the foil and finish under a hot grill for 2 or 3 minutes.


Here’s Jason creating the “distant wait line art” on the pavement from Steve Hatt to Popham Street past the Alpaca pub… genius! Steve Hatt are offering deliveries and click and collect. You can find them here





Kay’s Covid Cookery Class No. 8. Roast Fennel with Pomegranate seeds.

2 things. Thing 1: as well as still supplying and delivering fresh fish, Steve Hatt the Fishmongers have a few fruits and vegetables in stock, including some lovely fennel. Thing 2: I was having WineOnline with Lou yesterday who says she doesn’t like fennel, but had been doing some yummy cookery creation of her own using pomegranate seeds. So, in an attempt to change her mind about fennel, here is an Essex Road Recipe from way back in February 2016…


2 large fennel bulbs.

Olive oil

Salt and pepper

1 teaspoon freshly ground or crushed coriander seed.

Seeds and juice of half a pomegranate.

Trim off the very bottom of the fennel bulbs, and the feathery tops.

Discard any outer leaves that have dark or soft-looking patches. If you choose your fennel carefully and it’s a good batch you may not have to discard any of it.

Slice in half lengthwise, trying to keep the halves intact. Don’t worry if they fall apart, but if they do you’ll need a little less cooking time.

What to do, roughly speaking:

Cover the bottom of a small roasting dish with olive oil and sprinkle in the salt and pepper and freshly ground coriander.

Place this in the oven pre-heated to 210ºC

When the oil is hot, add the fennel and coat with the hot seasoned oil.

Return to the oven and roast for about 40 minutes.

(I was also roasting the halibut as well as potatoes, beetroot and carrots in separate dishes to make the best use of the hot oven.)

Turn the heat up to 240º.

Pour the pomegranate seeds and juice over the fennel and return to the oven for 10-15 minutes until the pomegranate seeds look slightly burnt. Taste one of the seeds to make sure that it is caramelised – chewy with a very slightly charred taste.

Serve while still very hot.

The combination of aromatic, sharp and sweet flavours works well as a side dish with meaty fish such as roast halibut, and with lamb chops or sausages.


Kay’s Covid Cookery Class No.7. WineOnline inspired curried cauliflower and potato.

During one of my many WineOnline chats of the week, a very important question came up. What to do with a cauliflower?

(What do you mean, you haven’t been having conversations about what to do with random vegetables while drinking wine and chatting with friends? What is WRONG with you people?)

So, here’s one of my favourite recipes, largely stolen from Yamuna Devi’s “Lord Krishna’s Cuisine”, one of the cookery books that I use the most, as evidenced by the state of my copy in the photo. It’s also worth checking out Megala’s Kitchen blog on WordPress, as she is always interesting and has some good ideas for cauliflower recipes.


One cauliflower. Wash, trim off the coarse outer leaves, cut out the woodiest part of the core and cut the rest into florets. (You can keep the outer leaves and woody core for an ingredient in a vegetable stock or soup in case this lockdown goes on for months!)

3 potatoes, peeled and cut into spears the size of giant chips.

2 medium-sized tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or half a tin of chopped tomatoes.

The frying spices (if you have them – if not add half a teaspoon each of dried chili powder, powdered ginger and cumin at the same time as you add the tomatoes later in the recipe)

2 green chilis

1.5 cm ginger root scraped and shredded

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon black mustard seed

The “add them later” spices and flavours

–       ½ teaspoon turmeric

–       2 teaspoons coriander

–       ½ teaspoon garam masala

–       1 teaspoon brown sugar or honey

–       11/2 teaspoons salt

Freshly chopped or dried parsley or coriander.

Squeeze of lemon.

Oil or ghee for frying

What to do. Roughly speaking.

Heat a generous amount (about 3 tbsp) oil in a large saucepan until very hot.

Add the frying spices (above) and fry stirring constantly for 2 or 3 minutes, or if you don’t have the frying spices go straight to..

Place the potatoes and cauli in the hot oil, turn down a little and fry, moving them around gently for about 5 minutes.

Add the tomatoes and all the “add them later” spices and sweetener and half the chopped fresh parsley or coriander leaf. If you’re using dried parsley/coriander leaf add it all now.

(If you didn’t have the frying spices, then at this point also add your dried chili powder, powdered ginger and cumin powder.)

Turn the heat way down low. Cover the pan and simmer gently for 15-20 minutes. Try one of the potatoes to make sure they’re cooked.

You might need to add a little water during this 20 minutes to stop things sticking to the pan.

Serve with a squeeze of lemon juice and the remainder of the chopped fresh herb.


Kay’s Covid Cookery Class No. 6. Gratitude tuna.

26th March and I’m grateful that Steve Hatt Fishmongers is still open. (Delivering when asked in order to help keep us safe.)

Now, just because I’m physically distancing and not cooking for people doesn’t mean I can’t treat myself to total deliciousness. So, this evening, after a couple of glasses of WineOnline with friends, I’m going to fry this beauty of a tuna steak which has been marinating for a couple of hours in lemon juice with a little grated fennel, freshly ground coriander seed and black pepper.


Heat a little mixed olive and sesame oil in a frying pan until smoking, gently place the tuna in there and turn down the heat a little. Fry for about 4 minutes on one side. Then turn the heat down to a low sizzle and place a lid or cover on the pan. I like to let it cook on this side until the top side begins to brown and then serve (probably about 8 minutes altogether).

If you prefer, you can flip it over after 4 minutes, give it one minute on the other side and then turn the heat down, cover and fry for another 2 or 3 minutes.


Kay’s Covid Cookery Class No. 5. “Cook it don’t chuck it” part 2. Green bean risotto

The last time I was in Chapel Market, the veggie stall family were selling 2 large bags of green beans for £1.50. So, of course, I went for the bargain and then realised that it’s really quite hard to eat that many green beans when you’re just cooking for yourself.


Luckily, risotto freezes. And I had arborio rice and parmesan in the house.

(If you have the Essex Road Recipe card deck, then this is the same as whistling green pea risotto, but substitutes green beans for the asparagus and green peas.)


1 large onion

4 sticks of celery

4 garlic cloves

1 litre of hot stock (I like to use veggie stock, but you can use chicken) – keep this by the stove in a jug, or in a pan on a low heat.

2 big handfuls of trimmed and chopped (about 2cm length) green beans – probably about 30-40 beans.

400 g risotto rice

a glass of white wine

100 g grana padano or parmesan cheese. Grana padano is less salty and a little creamier.

A knob of butter.

salt and pepper

What to do. …roughly speaking:

Chop the onion, celery and garlic very finely.

Heat a little olive oil in a large saucepan until smoking, and add the chopped veg. Stir it all around quickly for a few seconds and then turn down the heat, put a lid on the pan and sweat the veg for about 5 minutes. Take off the lid, turn up the heat a bit and add the rice. Keep stirring. Add the wine. Keep stirring. When the rice has absorbed the wine, start to add the stock – a little (about 100 ml) at a time. Wait until the rice has absorbed the liquid before you add any more. Taste the rice from time to time to see how you’re doing. When the rice is almost cooked (after about 20 minutes), add the chopped raw green beans. Keep cooking until the rice is cooked (when it’s no longer gritty in the middle, its done). You may not need all the stock. Or you may need a little more.. The beans should still be slightly crunchy. Turn off the heat and add the butter and most of the grated cheese – mix it all around thoroughly. Taste it and add salt and pepper if you like.

Serve immediately or allow to cool and freeze in individual portions in small freezer bags.


Kay’s Covid Cookery Class No 4. Don’t chuck it, cook it!

My elderly neighbour recently went to stay with his son, and kindly asked if I’d like to take the leftover pieces of fruit from his flat, among which were a few peaches and apples that were well past their sell by date.

My first response on looking at their wrinkled skin was “Wow, that looks just like me!” I mean, to throw them out. But then something from my 1950s childhood kicked in. After 14 years, wartime food rationing finally ended in the UK July 1954, just a couple of months before I was born. Thus, I was brought up by adults who were very careful not to waste food, and some of that certainly rubbed off on me.

So, if you find yourself guilty of buying and hoarding too much fruit and veg, don’t add insult to injury by throwing it away. Think of it as an opportunity to create something amazing, or, at the very least, nutritious and unselfish.

Here’s what I did with the fruit:

Slice the apples and peaches – I cut each each fruit into 8 slices.

Remove all the stalks, pips and stones.

If the skin comes off the peaches easily then take it off, but if not just leave it, it’s perfectly edible.

Place the apples in a saucepan with a very small amount of water and a cinnamon stick if you have one. Cook on a medium heat until it begins to bubble, turn the heat down to a low simmer and place a lid on the pan. After 5 minutes add the peaches for another 5 minutes.

Remove the cinnamon stick, taste a piece of the fruit and add a little sweetener (maple syrup, honey or sugar) if it’s too acidic for you. You can mash it up a little more if you like.

I ate it for breakfast with granola. You can also serve it in a pancake, or with this wartime recipe for Railway Pudding, recently rediscovered  by my old schoolfriend Charis, written down for her by her beloved maternal grandmother, Florence Melksham (pictured below).


(Up tomorrow –  find out what I did with way too many green beans).

Shortly after I posted this, one of my fabulous Canadian cousins, Avril Beckon, found the 40 year old recipe below which she says is “a great stand alone sauce to have with pasta and veg” It’s from a restaurant in Edmonton. It’s the bridge between “spirit of rationing” recipes and the first in this series on what to do with all that pasta. Thanks, Avril! fullsizeoutput_2961